We were warned. This was not a good time of year for spotting jaguar. In fact, probably the worst.

With our expectations set suitably low, we nonetheless decided that it was worth a punt. They are still around, just more elusive.

Our accommodation was a fair way along the river from the true border of the wildlife protection reserve. Even though technically not in the reserve, a wide perimeter around the reserve seems to be respected by locals and treated somewhat the same. The land might be private and (sparsely) populated, there are some farming activities, but it makes the transition from rural to nature quite gradual, like a soft border.

We set off early in the boat, with the schedule having us on the water for around 7 hours. Within the first hour, and possibly within 5 minutes of entering the reserve, there was this beautiful sight.

Swimming.

A jaguar.

Swimming.

I didn't know they swam.

We were looking in the trees, and in the undergrowth along the banks. We weren't looking in the water.

Swimming.

A jaguar.