Back in 2012, pedal cargo trikes were just part of everyday life here. Men on three wheels carried rice, vegetables, timber, metal rods – and probably a few things that never really belonged on a trike – weaving through back lanes and market alleys, always weighing up in their heads how far they could go and how much their legs had left.

What they do now, I can only guess. Maybe some still handle those short, awkward stretches between truck and market stall, or reach the corners where fuel is too costly and roads are too narrow for anything bigger. Others have likely been pushed aside by motorbikes and small cargo trikes, and a few are probably standing quiet in courtyards, waiting for better days or a new owner with strong legs. The old rhythms are still there somewhere, just lighter, more broken, and easier to overlook unless you really go looking for them.